ERWIN MANFRED HERMANN SCHNEIDER (1906–1987)
Life
Erwin Manfred Hermann Schneider was born on 13 April 1906 in Jáchymov in house No. 415, today the building of the spa administration. His father was a mining official whose family originally came from Kitzbühel in Tyrol.
He later obtained the title of professor and devoted himself to cartography and the scientific exploration of high mountain regions. He became a member of the Association for Comparative Alpine Research and served as the official cartographer of the German Alpine Club.
Schneider played a major role in the mapping of the Andes. He created the first accurate maps of the Peruvian Andes and published several books devoted to this mountain region.
Mountaineering achievements
Alongside his scientific work Schneider was an outstanding mountaineer. Between 25 July 1928 and 1936 he achieved fifteen first ascents of peaks between 6025 and 7462 metres above sea level. Six of these climbs were completed entirely solo.
Because of these achievements the Austrian climber Hermann Buhl gave him the nickname “King of the Seven-Thousanders”.
The Nanga Parbat expedition
Schneider took part in the German Himalayan expedition to Nanga Parbat led by Willy Merkl. During this expedition he reached an altitude of 7,895 metres.
However, the expedition ended in disaster after a sudden change in weather. Most members of the team died. Only Schneider and Peter Aschenbrenner survived.
After their return both men were accused of failing to help the other members of the expedition. After an investigation they were cleared of these accusations. Nevertheless, mutual accusations between the two climbers continued until their deaths. The expedition was also politically sensitive, as it was regarded by the Nazi regime as a prestigious national undertaking.
First ascents
Asia
Lenin Peak (7134 m)
Ramtang Peak (7150 m)
Nepal Peak (7168 m)
Dodang Nyima Peak (7200 m)
Jongsang Ri (7462 m)
South America
Huascarán Sur (6746 m)
Chopicalqui (6345 m)
Artesonraju (6025 m)
Huandoy (6395 m)
Copa (6188 m)
Quitaraju (6036 m)
Pucajirca Sur (6039 m)
Siula Grande (6344 m)
Rasac (6017 m)
Erwin Manfred Hermann Schneider died on 18 August 1987 in Lech am Arlberg in Austria.
